Local knowledge: Fez, Morocco

Author: Rebecca Raft
Photography: High Contrast

Rebecca Raft is the co-founder of jewellery studio Bouvier. She lives and works in Fez, Ubud and Mullumbimby.

Fez is special because...

arriving late at night and emerging in the morning feels like stepping through a looking glass or into a time machine. The call to prayer sets your mind clock, and the smell of spices, donkeys and desert is so evocative.

My daily ritual involves...

yoga at home, then Café Clock for an espresso and Berber eggs, baked in a spicy tomato sauce - highly addictive.

Eating with friends means...

heading to my friend Stephen di Renza's Restaurant Numéro 7. It's a chef-in-residence space where visiting chefs use ingredients only from local producers.

Comfort food is...

my friend's mum's tagine of lamb and wild baby artichoke-heart. Or a giant doughnut with an egg cracked into the hole from a crazy street vendor.

For a weird and wonderful curio...

I head to Omah's behind a locked door deep in the medina, an Aladdin's cave full of wondrous stuff. Or the junk souk - Fez has a souk for everything. There's a henna souk where I get my own personal amber perfume made by Rashid.

I spend hours...

fossicking with my designer friend Kate Kvalvik, climbing through the back of hole-in-the-wall shops, much to the bemusement of the owners.

For coffee...

I order "kawa khala" (espresso) and a glass of orange juice from the lovely Mustapha at Café La Place on the edge of Place Seffarine. It's the noisiest place in the city, where metal-workers hammer copper into giant cooking pots. The sound is magical to me.

For after-work drinks...

with friends I buy wood-fired bread, olives, and deep-fried dumplings, and I make tzatziki, and invite everyone up to my terrace to watch the sun setting over the medina with the Atlas Mountains in the distance.

I take visitors to...

lunch of brochettes and kefta tagine cooked over hot coals at Sidi Barada's, then we head to Dar Seffarine, restored brilliantly as a guesthouse by my extended family here, Kate Kvalvik and Alaa Said.

For time out I head to...

a restaurant called The Ruined Garden for the sweet fragrance of herbs and flowers and Robert's delicious farmhouse food.

 

Bouvier is available online at bouvier.myshopify.com







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