Breakfast at Ombretta, Glebe

Author: Pat Nourse

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats around the country right now: Ombretta, Glebe.

Our columnist AA Gill is fond of saying that the only thing stopping him committing completely to living life in Italian is the breakfasts. Should he find himself on Glebe Point Road soon, though, he might find his head turned. Neighbourhood favourite Ombretta has just branched out to offer a breakfast menu Fridays through Sundays. Authenticity is not, in this instance, the name of their game; instead there's a giddy excess to the offerings. You might say plates such as the baked cheesy polenta in broth with oyster mushroom, carrot, zucchini and a poached egg seem busy. You might wonder whether the otherwise winning chickpea pancake with smoked salmon, burrata and capers also needs lettuce and roast tomato. And wouldn't the otherwise very, very welcome offer of spaghetti carbonara for breakfast be even better with the egg done the classic way rather than at 63 degrees? But the place is generally so charming and the service so friendly that it all comes off as exuberance rather than over-reaching - especially when breakfast-dessert takes the form of either "not-French" toasted brioche and zabaglione, or the tiraccino (pictured), the unholy offspring of a tiramis├╣ and a cappuccino.

Ombretta, 355 Glebe Point Rd, Glebe, NSW, (02) 8060 7893

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