Morning After, Brisbane
Author: Fiona Donnelly
10:09AM, Nov 5, 2015
Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats
around the country right now: Morning After, Brisbane.
The antithesis of the grungy, boho cafés that used to define the quarter, Morning After might be a fitting poster child for the new West End. The deconstructed breakfast pappardelle "carbonara" pairs guanciale with field mushrooms, combining both with a slow-cooked egg and pecorino (the menu acknowledges it's a combination that may offend Italians). Fish tacos are laden with tempura-coated barramundi fillets, which get a lift from wasabi mayo, coriander sprigs and lime, but need more chilli bite. Lamb shoulder salad brings more satisfaction: a stack of shredded slow-roasted lamb offset by the pleasant bitterness of lightly charred radicchio leaves, fennel, peppery watercress and shavings of pecorino. It's a winning advertisement for Morning After's Yiro Sunday afternoon sessions, when the Greek heritage of mother-and-son owners Yianni and Soula Passaris (formerly of Dell'Ugo, South Bank) is given free reign.
Morning After, The Glass Factory, Cnr Vulture and Cambridge sts, West End, Qld, (07) 3844 0500.
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