Tim Grey
The perfect drum roll to Tonka’s modern-Indian moves is a pre-dinner rum- spiked lassi or chai-flavoured punch at the Thali Bar paired with snacks – perhaps signature feather-light pani puri, or a feisty bundle of tandoor rockling, wombok and pickled onions wrapped in a lettuce leaf – and the scent of garam masala in the air. It sets the agenda as accurately as the clean lines of the spacious dining room and the noteworthy Italian-accented wine list. Framing Indian food in a contemporary Euro-style setting like this is an anomaly in Melbourne but Tonka serves up substance to support the style. Some of the best eating moments come courtesy of the tandoor oven – a whole juicy spatchcock with pickles is a masterclass in how good this cooking technique can be – but there are highlights from the less traditional reaches of the menu, too. Vindaloo steak tartare with fenugreek raita is a brilliant example of well-balanced spicing, as is the yellow dal tadka subtly heated with Kashmiri chilli and a knee-weakeningly good dessert of carrot halwa with cream cheese ice-cream. Great service completes the good times.
Phone:
(03) 9650 3155
Website:
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
Licensed
Bar
Vegetarian-friendly
Wheelchair access
Impressive wine list
Accepted card types:
American Express
Eftpos
MasterCard
Visa
Chef(s):
Hendri Budiman, Adam D’Sylva & Kay-Lene Tan
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot at the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 50.
