Eve Wilson
REVIEW
Make no mistake: there’s nothing timid about The Town Mouse. Polished terrazzo floors and glossy black tiles keep the noise levels lively, and switched-on waitstaff are just as passionate about a glass of booze-free French grape juice as they are the most obscure natural wine on their menu. They’re right to be so enthusiastic about the food, too. Dave Verheul’s dishes may be some of the prettiest in Melbourne, but there’s substance and skill beyond the aesthetics. Curls of just-seared squid are tangled with refreshing shaved fennel and iceberg, roasted pork jowl is balanced by tangy yoghurt, witlof and fig-leaf dust, and roasted red cabbage takes on a meaty intensity thanks to its layers of prune, apple and parmesan. Sculptural desserts create a clever interplay between sweet and savoury, such as preserved pineapple and glassine pineapple tuiles with salty shortbread and a quenelle of perfumed jasmine rice ice-cream.
Phone:
(03) 9347 3312
Website:
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
Licensed
Bar
Vegetarian-friendly
Outdoor dining
Impressive Wine List
Accepted card types:
American Express
Eftpos
MasterCard
Visa
Chef(s):
Dave Verheul & Jasper Avent
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
2018 Top 100 Rank – #90
Food: ★
Wine: ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
