Ben Dearnley
Sean’s feels like home, or a home away from home, one where Bondi Beach is so close you almost feel the sand under your toes. It’s aided, no doubt, by hospitality with a sense of ease that only comes with experience, as well as the charming mismatched furniture, local artwork, fresh-cut flowers, scallop-shell decorations and a menu recited from the chalkboard. Bric-a-brac beach house chic, let’s call it. On the plate, Sean Moran does nothing more than good food done right: a plate of mostly raw baby vegetables from his Bilpin farm simply dressed with vinaigrette trumpets produce at its peak, as does a sweet sweetcorn chowder topped with a clutch of pipis and loaded with chorizo. Elsewhere, properly roasted chicken and crumbed Murray cod, “Mum’s style” with mash, elevate home comforts. The prospect of BYO bolsters the modest but righteous Australian wine list and many, celebrating or not, bring something special to go with their best linen. The simple pleasure of fruit in season with peach-leaf ice-cream and a pastry twist speaks to the greater theme that the luxury of wholesome food prepared with care and attention wins out over fuss and frills. Any day.
Phone:
(02) 9365 4924
Website:
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
BYO
Licensed
Outdoor dining
Accepted card types:
American Express
Eftpos
MasterCard
Visa
Chef:
Sean Moran
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
2020 Top 50 Rank – #28
Gourmet Traveller’s restaurant guide gives a yearly snapshot at the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 50. The wine star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
