REVIEW
Melbourne has a thing for comfortable Italian, and this self-assured laneway trattoria knows how to deliver the staples. Butter comes in foil, pasta is handmade and the Collins Street suits soak it all up like a wedge of ciabatta in a pool of Nap sauce. Evenings draw a diverse crowd – it’s also the time when a spot at the bar is best. Start with bar snacks or antipasti (the baked polpetti in sugo is a must) but always factor double-carb into your plans. En pointe pasta (agnolotti stuffed with veal and amaretti crumbs, say) and confidently minimal pizza (perhaps topped with sopressa and Kalamata olives) are what chef Marco Lori does best. Desserts, such as a chocolate semifreddo with mandarin sorbet, also merit attention. Though Lupino’s a well-oiled machine, missteps can occur – lacklustre seasoning in some dishes, for instance – but an excellent wine list (with spot-on recommendations from staff) keep the dial firmly locked on comfort.
Phone:
(03) 9639 0333
Website:
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
Licensed
Bar
Vegetarian-friendly
Wheelchair Access
Impressive Wine List
Accepted card types:
American Express
Diners Club
Eftpos
MasterCard
Visa
Chef(s):
Marco Lori & Stephen Phillips
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
