REVIEW
Oh, Longrain, can it really have been 17 years already? You take bookings now, and what was the bar when you first opened is now home to large booths, so the dining is no longer strictly communal. Your service is a mix of switched-on and cursory, and you’re as loud as bustling as ever, but in the past decade, Thai Town has swelled and grown only blocks away, and its food makes what you serve now often seem unbalanced by sweetness in comparison. But we love the one-bite punch of ma hor, sticky balls of pork, prawn and peanut set on shards of sour pineapple, the contrast of fat and lean in five-spicy caramelised pork hock, and the beautifully cloud-like texture of salt-and-pepper tofu just the same. Desserts are, yes, quite sugary; the smart drinks list brings greater reward. More bass and treble from chilli heat, the funk of ferment and the brightness of acid could bring welcome sparkle to the tune, but for now we’re still tapping along.
Phone:
(02) 9280 2888
Website:
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
Licensed
Bar
Vegetarian-friendly
Wheelchair Access
Impressive Wine List
Accepted card types:
American Express
Diners Club
Eftpos
MasterCard
Visa
Chef(s):
Jin Hironaga
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
