Kristoffer Paulsen
With expansive windows framing the bustle of Flinders Lane, there are few experiences more quintessentially Melbourne than a meal at Cumulus Inc. Now in its second decade, Andrew McConnell’s all-day diner makes the case that the simplest dishes are often the best. Tuna tartare, jewel-bright cubes adorned with nothing more than a whisper of fresh dill, is served on a vibrant crush of new season peas and a pillowy cloud of goat curd. Buffalo ricotta gnocchi, pan-fried and impressively airy, is plated with a smear of silky butternut pumpkin purée, a scattering of macadamia nuts and a handful of zippy herbs. Thumbs of tender Jerusalem artichoke filled with Parmesan custard, a hint of burnt honey and a dusting of rosemary salt become much more than the sum of their parts. The wine list is impressive and exhaustive, the service charming, and dessert recommended. A little dish of superbly sticky roasted quince paired with spice-laden, if unseasonal, hot cross bun ice-cream might raise the ire of purists but when it tastes this good, who’s complaining?
Phone:
(03) 9650 1445
Website:
Bookings:
Available for groups of 7–14 for breakfast, and groups of up to 14 for lunch and dinner.
Features:
Licensed
Bar
Vegetarian-friendly
Wheelchair access
Private room
Breakfast
Impressive wine list
Accepted card types:
American Express
Eftpos
Japanese Credit Bureau
MasterCard
Visa
Chef(s):
Andrew McConnell & Sam Cheetham
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot at the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 50.
