AT A GLANCE
Both the brioche and the cured ocean trout can be made several days ahead - all you need to do on the day is scramble some eggs. You'll need to begin the cured trout at least a day ahead in any case.
|01||For citrus-cured ocean trout, process salt, sugar, green spring onion tops, dill and citrus rinds in a food processor to combine. Place trout on a large piece of plastic wrap, spread with half the salt mixture, turn and spread with remaining salt mixture, then wrap firmly. Place on a non-reactive tray and refrigerate to cure (overnight). Rinse trout under cold running water, pat dry, thinly slice diagonally and refrigerate until required.|
|02||Mix flour, sugar, yeast and ½ tsp sea salt flakes in an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook to combine. Warm milk in a saucepan over low heat to lukewarm, then whisk in crème fraîche and eggs. With mixer on medium speed, add milk mixture to flour mixture and mix to combine, then gradually add butter and mix until shiny and elastic (4-5 minutes). Transfer to a lightly buttered bowl, cover and stand in a warm place until doubled in size (1-2 hours). Knock back dough, divide into 10 pieces, place on a lightly floured tray and cover loosely with plastic wrap.|
|03||Working with one piece of dough at a time, divide dough into 3 and roll into balls. Place the 3 balls into one hole of a buttered 12-hole 125ml muffin pan. Repeat with remaining dough. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and set aside in a warm place until risen by half (1 hour; see note). Preheat oven to 180C. Brush brioche with eggwash and bake until golden and cooked through (15-20 minutes). Turn out of trays and cool slightly on a wire rack. Halve horizontally, place trout slices on bases and set aside.|
|04||For scrambled eggs, whisk cream, eggs and lemon rind in a bowl and season generously to taste. Heat butter in a large frying pan over low-medium heat until foaming, add egg mixture and stir occasionally until just set (3-4 minutes). Fold in herbs and reserved white spring onion ends and divide among brioche rolls. Top with salmon roe, scatter with chervil, sandwich with brioche tops and serve warm.|
Note You can make the brioche up until they have been shaped and placed in the moulds, then refrigerate them overnight. Bring to room temperature (1-2 hours) then brush with eggwash and bake on the day you want to serve them. Alternatively, they can be baked, cooled and stored in an airtight container in the freezer for several weeks. To serve, thaw at room temperature, then warm in a moderate oven for 10 minutes.
ROSÉ CHAMPAGNE. , suggested by MAX ALLEN