AT A GLANCE
At Loam, Aaron Turner turned heads, bringing a Noma-like sensibility to cooking the food of Victoria's Bellarine Peninsula. Now at Igni, in Geelong, he has taken it up a notch, cooking with fire to bring a greater sense (and taste) of immediacy to pristine ingredients, while simultaneously making the larger experience more relaxed. It's a great way to dine. "This marron dish is all about letting the fire and smoke do the work, setting the marron flesh and charring the leaves for flavour," says Turner. "The finger lime and Jersey cream add acid and fat and bring it all together."
|01||Kill marron humanely keeping tails intact (see note). Bring a large saucepan of water to a rapid boil, then add marron one at a time, cover and boil until they turn red (30 seconds to 1 minute). Plunge into iced water to stop cooking, and drain well.|
|02||Add cabbage leaves to boiling water in saucepan to just wilt (about 30 seconds), then drain and refresh in iced water.|
|03||Peel marron tails and remove meat. Pat dry with paper towels, brush with melted butter and season to taste. Pat cabbage leaves dry with paper towels, brush with butter and lightly season, then wrap around marron tail meat, brush with more butter to seal edges and secure with a toothpick. Refrigerate to set butter (10-12 minutes).|
|04||Light a fire of kindling-sized pieces of red gum or other well-dried Australian hardwood, allowing them to catch fire; allow the flames to reduce for a less acrid flavour (10-20 minutes; see note). Char the marron parcels by rolling over the flame until blackened and marron meat has just cooked (3-4 minutes). Remove toothpicks, brush with extra melted butter, serve with a dollop of cream and squeeze finger lime pearls on top.|