“This is a clean, refreshing dish that was originally devised about 150 years ago, to be offered to monks in the hot season. However, it is now served in markets throughout Thailand year-round, especially during hot weather. It is particularly popular where pineapples are grown, around Phetchaburi and a little further south. All the ingredients are served at room temperature and a spoonful of each item – as much or as little as desired – is sprinkled over the noodles. Some stalls offer variations such as tart, green hog apples (makrok) or sour cucumbers (madan) in place of the green mango, according to the season and the region. Some fancy cooks will even add some sour snakeskin pears (salak). I have come across old recipes that propose pomelo too, but I have never seen this on the streets.”
Ingredients
Dressing
Method
Main
1.First make the dressing by simmering the sugar with 1 cup of water, the salt, fish sauce and scuds for a few minutes until slightly reduced. Remove from the heat and add the lime juice. As it cools, the dressing will thicken a little. It should taste quite sweet and salty and just a little tart and spicy. Allow to cool completely.
2.Simmer the coconut cream with a good pinch of salt until slightly thickened but not separated. Put to the side to cool.
3.To serve, wrap each skein of noodles around the fingertips to form a scroll and place in a bowl, allowing two skeins per person. Top with the pineapple, ginger, green mango and sliced garlic. Spoon over the dressing and sprinkle with the ground dried prawns and chillies. Drizzle over a dash of fish sauce.
4. To finish, spoon over the simmered coconut cream.
Note This recipe is from Thai Street Food by David Thompson, published by Penguin Lantern ($100, hbk), and appeared in the November 2009 issue of Australian Gourmet Traveller. The specialty ingredients used in these recipes are available from Asian supermarkets and Asian greengrocers. David Thompson’s recipes are reproduced here without Gourmet Traveller style changes.
Earl Carter
