We skipped breakfast, rolled up our sleeves and took on the task of taste-testing hot cross buns in the name of retail research. Maya Kerthyasa shares the verdict.
This time of year brings plenty of good things, not least the prospect of hot cross buns. While keen home bakers make their own (and there’s no shortage of details on our website), many of us turn to bakeries, grocery stores and supermarkets for our fix. These days the shelves are bursting with choice, which is why we decided to road-test 10 of the more classic specimens from different ends of the retail spectrum.
The panel of judges – Christopher Thé of Sydney’s Black Star Pastry (a keen bun-maker himself), chef and Gourmet Traveller masterclass contributor Damien Pignolet, our own senior food editor Lisa Featherby, and chief restaurant critic Pat Nourse – blind-tasted each one, looking for buns that were soft and giving with a rich colour, consistent structure and balanced levels of fruit and spice. Most importantly, though, they were looking for buns they’d be happy to serve on their Easter table.
Did they find them? You’ll want to flick on the toaster and get the butter out of the fridge – the results were surprising. Here are their findings, starting with the buns they rated most highly.
Note The buns from Flour and Stone, Jocelyn’s Provisions and Coles arrived a day before the tasting; our tasters were made aware of this during the tasting.
Photography Ben Hansen Styling Lisa Featherby
Bourke Street Bakery, Sydney
Bourke Street Bakery, Sydney
Despite its large, untraditional structure, which is more of a loaf, Bourke Street Bakery‘s hot cross bun ticked all the judges’ boxes. “Love the old-fashioned flavour,” said Pignolet. “Good texture and taste. Nice crumb.” Thé gave it two thumbs-up for technique. “The yeast is just perfectly proved and the baking’s great.” Nourse said: “You’re going to cut that into a slice, you’re going to put that in the toaster and you’re going to be a very happy person.” $6.50 a loaf.
Jocelyn’s Provisions, Brisbane
Jocelyn’s Provisions, Brisbane
“I rate this quite highly,” said Pignolet of the buns from Jocelyn’s Provisions. “Very nice fruit, soft spice, pleasant crust, and it wasn’t too sticky and gooey.” Nourse agreed: “I thought it was attractive and had plenty of fruit.” The rich, shiny exterior stood out for Featherby. “The glaze is really important,” she said. “That’s beautiful.” Thé concurred on the appearance front and noted a distinct whack of “cinnamon on the nose”. $11 for 6.
Phillippa’s, Melbourne
Phillippa’s, Melbourne
Pignolet was an instant fan of this bun from Phillippa’s. “I found the palate to be really rounded, pleasant and enjoyable,” he said. “The balance of spice and fruit is good.” He gave it ticks for its shape as well. “It’s got amazing structure.” Nourse, too, gave it points for its good looks. It received a medium rating from Thé, on the other hand, who liked the squeeze but didn’t love the scent. $16.50 for 6.
Brasserie Bread, Sydney
Brasserie Bread, Sydney
This traditional bun from Brasserie Bread earned points in a few areas: “I thought it had quite nice spice and palate and an okay crumb,” said Pignolet. Thé liked its giving texture, but wasn’t a fan of its tough, chewy cross. Nourse gave it points for its rich colour, while Featherby thought it leaned towards dry. “It kind of tastes like cardboard,” she said. $10 for 6.
Bowan Island, NSW & Vic
Bowan Island, NSW & Vic
The first thing the judges noticed on this bun was its thin, tasteless cross. Flavour-wise, the scores varied. Featherby and Pignolet detected a sour, citrusy aftertaste, which didn’t work in the bun’s favour. The others didn’t mind the balance of sweetness and spice. “It was actually very nice,” said Thé. “I thought it was okay,” said Nourse. “Toast and butter.” $11.98 for 6. From Thomas Dux stores in Victoria and NSW.
Healthybake, NSW & Vic
Healthybake, NSW & Vic
This bun was a winner on the filling front, for our tastes, but lacked in give and texture: “It had really nice plump fruit,” said Featherby, “but it was a little dry.” The other tasters, too, found it to be tough and lacking in any real flavour. “It’s got a hard crust, dull nose and dull flavour,” Pignolet said. “I picked up green raisins,” said Thé, “which was interesting.” $8.98 for 6. From Thomas Dux stores in Victoria and NSW.
Ancient Grains, NSW & Vic
Ancient Grains, NSW & Vic
The judges were divided when it came to this wholemeal spelt number. Featherby wasn’t rapt. “It’s not horrible, it’s just very ordinary,” she said. Pignolet didn’t love it either, but complimented its texture: “It doesn’t clag and glue up your throat.” Nourse was the minority vote. “It is heavy,” he said, “but it’s fruity, it’s clovey and it’s not as dry as anything else on the table.” $10.98 for 6. From Thomas Dux stores in Victoria and NSW.
Coles, national
Coles, national
This one was neutrally received by the judges. “It’s got a nice, big, bright cross,” said Nourse, “not delicious, but distinctive.” Thé enjoyed the consistency of the dough, but thought it had a finger-bun quality to it. Featherby, meanwhile, wasn’t blown away by the understated spice, but found it to be less dry than some of the others. $3.50 for 6. From Coles supermarkets nationwide.
Flour and Stone, Sydney
Flour and Stone, Sydney
A little more glaze would have earned Flour and Stone‘s bun a bit more love from the judges. Pignolet noted a strong spice and a reasonable crumb. Nourse found the texture “cakey”. The fruit factor was tart – “I feel like there’s a cranberry or something in it,” said Thé. $4 each.
Cacao, Melbourne
Cacao, Melbourne
While this contemporary-looking bun from Cacao earned some points for innovation, it failed on almost every other front. “It’s a bit different,” said Featherby, “I like the fact that it’s not a piped cross.” The rough mouth feel and lack of spice, however, let it down. Pignolet described its texture as dreary, while Nourse found a “citric aftertaste”. Thé said: “I’d eat them in my pyjamas watching TV.” $16.50 for 6.
